What is the Best Chemical Exfoliant? A Guide to Glowing, Smooth Skin
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Time to read 7 min
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Time to read 7 min
Chemical exfoliants can be your skin’s best friend or your worst nightmare, depending on how you use them.
Unlike scrubs that rely on friction, chemical exfoliants dissolve dead skin cells and dirt at the surface. When done right, this can mean bright, glowing skin, fewer breakouts, and even softened wrinkles.
Let’s look at what makes each type of chemical exfoliant shine—so you can find your perfect match and discover what the best chemical exfoliant is for your skin.
The quick guide
Chemical exfoliants break down bonds between dead skin cells to lift and clear them off. Unlike physical exfoliants, which can scratch or irritate, chemicals do the hard work of renewal with less wear and tear on your skin.
Popular face chemical exfoliator types include AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid, BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid, and enzymes, each with different perks depending on your skin type.
So, what’s the best chemical exfoliant? Well, that depends! Here’s a quick guide on what Dr Tanya recommends for the three main skin types:
Oily & Acne-Prone Skin |
Salicylic Acid (BHA) |
Salicylic acid works wonders for oily and acne-prone skin, as it’s oil-soluble and penetrates deep into pores to clean out impurities. It reduces blackheads, keeps acne under control, and is gentle enough for regular use. While it can be drying, it’s a winner if you’re dealing with clogged pores and excess oil. |
Dry Skin |
Glycolic Acid (AHA) |
Glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, is great for dry or ageing skin. With its small molecular size, it penetrates deeper than most acids, stimulating collagen production and brightening your complexion. Just remember, a little glycolic acid goes a long way—it’s pretty potent! |
Sensitive Skin |
Lactic Acid or Enzymes |
Lactic acid is a gentler AHA, ideal for sensitive or dry skin types. Enzymes are even milder; they work by breaking down keratin bonds that hold onto dead skin cells, which allows those dead cells to slough off easier. These acids work on the surface level, providing all the glow without the potential for redness. |
Face chemical exfoliators vary not only in their depth of penetration but also in what they bring to the table in terms of benefits.
One of the main chemical exfoliants we specialise in at Dr Tanya Skincare is glycolic acid – but there are some other pivotal ingredients that, while not technically exfoliants, are so beneficial to use in tandem with them.
As a deep-penetrating AHA, glycolic acid effectively brightens and smooths. It’s ideal for uneven skin tone, fine lines and dullness. If you’re ready for a glow up, add glycolic acid to your routine. Just keep in mind that this acid is one of the strongest, so start with a lower concentration (around 5%, or even less) if you’re new to chemical exfoliants.
Interested in adding glycolic acid to your skincare ritual? Read about the various benefits of this powerhouse ingredient in our article on Glycolic Acid Benefits.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that stimulate cell turnover. While they're not exactly chemical exfoliants because they can't break the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface, they can stimulate cell turnover and unclog pores very effectively.
Retinoids also help to smooth wrinkles and skin texture and reduce pigmentation. Retinoid products are so powerful that it's often unnecessary to use a typical exfoliant alongside them, so they can be a good alternative – but of course, retinoids can be harsh and may not suit sensitive skin or skin that’s very new to chemical exfoliation.
Retinol is a much gentler option that delivers similar benefits to retinoids, though the cell turnover and collagen stimulation won't be as quick or effective.
If you’re curious about how retinoids compare to over-the-counter retinol, check out our blog on Retinoids vs Retinol.
While not a face chemical exfoliator, niacinamide works wonders alongside an exfoliant – so much so that we often recommend pairing products with these active ingredients.
Known for its calming, balancing effects, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, making it less likely to react to stronger ingredients that are used in chemical exfoliators. Pairing it with your AHA, BHA or enzyme exfoliant can help reduce redness and irritation.
Discover all the benefits of niacinamide, like how it supports oil regulation and reduces redness, in our Niacinamide Unveiled blog.
Let’s be honest—overdoing it with chemical exfoliants is tempting. We all love a boujee skincare ritual, and it can feel so luxurious to keep using those gorgeous exfoliating serums.
However, exfoliating too frequently can leave your skin red and irritated. Not so cute—and definitely not good for our skin. Here are some best practices:
[Read Full Article: The Dos and Don'ts of Facial Exfoliation]
Exfoliants can be the star, but they need a good supporting cast to shine. Here’s how to layer your skincare routine for optimal results:
[Read Full Article: Your Go-to Guide to Facial Exfoliation: When, How, and What To Do]
The best chemical exfoliant is all about what works for you. From glycolic acid’s deep penetration to the detoxifying power of BHAs, each has something unique to offer. Try a few to see what your skin loves, and remember: it’s all about balance. With the right exfoliant in your routine, you’re on your way to radiant, healthy skin!
At Dr Tanya Skincare, we believe in using science-backed ingredients that work harmoniously with your skin’s natural balance. Our products feature carefully chosen acids and actives paired with soothing botanicals to help you achieve radiant skin without compromising its health.
If you’re looking for a gentle yet effective solution, check out these must-have doctor formulated products that include these fabulous chemical exfoliant ingredients:
Try lactic acid or PHAs (polyhydroxy acids), as they’re gentler on sensitive skin. It’s also crucial to start slow. Use lower concentrations and shorter application times, gradually increasing as your skin builds tolerance. Always listen to your skin—it’s great at telling you when it’s had enough!
For most people, once or twice a week is enough, but again—start slowly and see how your skin responds. If you notice any redness, reactivity, or anything out of the ordinary, stop using that product. You might need to reduce the frequency of use and/or opt for a lower concentration. As always, we recommend consulting a skin professional before introducing any new products to your skincare ritual. Book an appointment with our incredible Gold Coast-based team today!
It’s possible, but mixing acids can be intense. If you are combining, alternate days rather than layering multiple exfoliants at once. Ultimately, we just don’t think it’s necessary, so it’s best to just find the go-to product that works for you.
It’s possible to use both, as long as your skin can tolerate it—just make sure you cycle between these methods and use the physical exfoliator no more than once a week (or even once a fortnight). Chemical exfoliant serums with low, gentle concentrations can be very effectively incorporated into most skincare routines, as can gentle physical exfoliants like Dr Tanya’s NuSonic Facial Exfoliator .
For more info on whether you should use a face chemical exfoliator, a physical exfoliant, or both, check out our guide on the Best Facial Exfoliator Methods Based on Your Skin Type .