LED Light Therapy Masks: Science or Gimmick?

Noticing fine lines that seem to linger longer than they used to? Breakouts behaving nothing like they did in your 20s? Or perhaps a loss of skin firmness and radiance that feels so far out of reach you’ve almost given up on it?

You’re not imagining it — and you’re certainly not alone.

Enter: LED light therapy.

Once reserved for dermatology clinics and high-end skin spas, LED light therapy has built a strong reputation for supporting skin healing, stimulating collagen production, and improving a range of common skin concerns. Yet, in recent years, we’ve witnessed the surge of something new: at-home LED light therapy masks promising similar results, and absolutely no need to change out of your pyjamas.

Wondering if they’re worth every cent or just another overhyped product built on empty promises? Join us as we delve into what LED light therapy actually is, the benefits it's most commonly used for, and the difference between medical-grade and at-home masks — including what those differences mean for safety, strength, and visible results. And finally, we’ll get the Doctor’s take on whether they’re a smart skin investment or simply clever hype. Let’s take a closer look. 

LED (Light-Emitting Diode) light therapy uses non-invasive light energy to penetrate the skin, triggering cellular changes. This is a process known as photobiomodulation (or PBM, for the non-science folk). This reaction helps to repair, reduce inflammation, and promote collagen and elastin production — the perfect recipe for glowing, supple skin!

LED light therapy uses coloured lights with varying wavelengths, designed to target different areas based on how deeply each wavelength penetrates the skin. This includes:

It’s important to note that the most commonly used lights are red, blue, and near-infrared. Green and yellow lights are generally used in multi-light LED masks rather than as a targeted treatment on their own. 

Not all LED light therapy masks are created equal — which means there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. The results you can expect depend largely on the specific wavelengths used, the light intensity, and the overall quality of the device. 

That said, with the right device and routine, LED light therapy has been shown to support improvements in the following skin and hair concerns:

PBM (quick recap: PBM is what occurs when light wavelengths trigger cellular changes beneath the skin) can help treat specific hair disorders, like some scarring and non-scarring alopecia. Essentially, the light stimulates the scalp cells that support hair growth. This process helps keep hair in its active growing stage (anagen phase) for longer, and simultaneously encourages nearby hair follicles to grow stronger strands. It’s also suggested that the light causes vasodilation — the widening of blood vessels —, which increases blood flow and nutrient transportation to the hair follicles.

The findings: Clinical studies have proven this treatment to be effective in increasing hair thickness, density, and length over time.

PBM is known to have a positive effect on mild acne by reducing sebum (oil) and transepidermal water loss. It’s also believed that blue light can destroy a certain acne-causing bacteria, P. acnes. It can also improve wound healing and reduce inflammation.

The findings: 15 women with moderate acne vulgaris were exposed to 600-750 nm light twice weekly for 4 weeks. The study concluded that participants experienced significantly fewer acne spots and reduced oil production, with improvements still evident three months later.

LED light therapy, particularly red light therapy, has been shown to have a positive effect on anti-ageing, largely due to its role in the production of type 1 and 3 collagen and elastin — two important components of the youthful, glowing skin we all seek.

The findings: A study of 20 healthy Caucasian women over 3 months who used an LED mask with a wavelength of 630 ± 10nm and a power of 15.6J/cm for 12 minutes twice a week. Over the 3 months, researchers observed significant results, including a decrease in crow’s feet wrinkle depth, a decrease in slackening of the facial oval, an increase in dermal density, a decrease in cheek roughness, and a decrease in sebum quantity. 

While this idea of LED light therapy has been around for decades and is a tried, tested and adored service at many  skin clinics, at-home LED face mask light therapy is a relatively new concept. You’ve probably seen them all over TikTok — those glowing, futuristic masks that look like they belong in a sci-fi film (or, let’s be honest, perhaps a horror movie?). Yep, those are the ones!

An at-home LED light therapy mask is a wearable skincare device that fits comfortably over your face to target specific skin concerns. Similarly to other LED light therapies, an at-home LED light therapy mask uses different coloured lights and wavelengths to penetrate the skin at varying depths to trigger cellular responses, such as collagen production, wound healing, inflammation reduction, bacteria destruction, etc. The light energy is absorbed by skin cells at different skin depths to boost cellular activity, which encourages repair and regeneration, all without the use of heat or harshness. 

Thinking of rushing out to buy an LED light therapy mask? Not so fast.

While the benefits might sound impressive — and in the right circumstances, they absolutely are — it’s crucial to understand that not all devices deliver the same results. Let’s unpack some of the important differences between at-home LED face masks and medical-grade LED treatments: 

1. They’re cheaper: At-home masks can cost anywhere from $100 to well over $1000 in Australia, while a single session of LED therapy in a clinic might cost $70-$150. So, if we’re to compare the cost-per-use total, owning an at-home mask could potentially be a better financial option for you in the long-run. Yet it’s important to consider why affordability shouldn’t always be the primary driver, especially when it comes to skin health. 

2. They’re lower-intensity: LED light therapy in a clinic can be highly customisable and powerful, making it unsafe to perform without a trained technician. As such, to make them safe for at-home use, they’re designed to have far lower intensity or customisation, meaning you unfortunately won’t get the same results as going to a clinic. It also means you’ll need to do it more frequently (multiple times per week) to see results.

3. They’re convenient: Let’s be honest, self-care Sundays took an exciting turn with the release of at-home LED light therapy masks. Nothing screams convenience and multitasking quite like pampering your skin with light therapy while you go about your life admin. Convenience is a huge driver in today’s time-poor world, and this is a big win for that reason alone!

4. They’re safe to use unsupervised: At-home LED masks are safe to use from the comfort of your home without supervision, as they aren’t as strong as medical-grade, in-clinic masks. This makes them more accessible for time-poor people, or those who don’t have the ability to commit to a professional service (like young mums with kids at home or professionals who simply can’t find the time to fit it all in). 

At-home LED light therapy masks are designed for regular use in the comfort of your home. As they’re required to be safe to use unsupervised, they’re lower in power. While a convenient and more affordable option long-term, the results are slower and less obvious. 

Medical-grade LED light therapy masks are designed to be performed by a professional in-clinic. As they use higher-intensity devices, they offer faster and more effective results. Likewise, as they’re conducted by a trained professional, they can be tailored (i.e., dosage, wavelength etc.) to suit individual needs, and combined with other treatments for better results. 

Short answer: Yes — with a few caveats.

It’s not entirely black and white. Whether an LED mask is worth the investment depends on several factors, which is exactly why we sat down with Dr Tanya to get her expert perspective.

From a technical standpoint, at-home LED light therapy masks have been shown to support facial rejuvenation. However, as we mentioned earlier, not all devices are created equal — and that distinction makes all the difference between a tool that forms a staple part of your AM to PM skincare routine and one that collects dust in your bathroom cupboard.

The key factor is power density. While many at-home masks use the same wavelengths as clinical devices, they don’t deliver the same light intensity, which influences what occurs at a cellular level.

As Dr Tanya explains:

“There are different types of masks being sold. Although the [clinical and at-home masks] have got the same wavelengths. they are not the same…the power of the mask is where the difference is,” says Dr Tanya.

“A professional-grade mask that you get from the salon has the same frequency, but it is delivered with much more power, in shorter intervals, and is more effective. That’s around 50 to over 150mW/cm². Whereas, the at-home masks are much less — they’re generally between 5 to 30 mW/cm²."

Despite being lower in power than clinical devices and generally considered safe, they aren’t completely risk-free. According to Dr Tanya, it’s important to take the time to research your device and carefully follow the instructions to avoid potentially aggravating existing concerns.

For example, “if you have acne, blue light is the answer. However, if you have acne and melasma, don’t go there. Blue light can’t be used for people with melasma as it aggravates the pigmentation, so you’re getting the opposite effect,” says Dr Tanya.

Doctor’s tip: If you’re considering investing in an at-home LED mask, book a consultation with your dermatologist first. A professional assessment will help you understand exactly what your skin needs, which wavelengths are appropriate, and any potential risks — especially if you’re managing conditions like melasma, acne, or sensitivity.

Assuming you’ve done your research and purchased the right at-home device for your needs, there is still one question that will determine whether or not it’s a positive skin investment for you. Yep, we’re talking about your commitment.

“Where the magic happens for either treatment, whether in-clinic with a more powerful option or at-home with a gentler mask, is in the consistency,” says Dr Tanya.

While you may get faster and more visible results at a clinic, “if you’re not going it consistently, even at the clinic, there is no magic that’s going to happen..where the benefits lie with at-home options is in the consistency.”

Doctor’s tip: Research how frequently you’ll need to use your at-home mask (follow the instructions) and assess whether you can sustainably commit to that routine. Regular usage is key if you want to see improvements and get your money’s worth. 

Pressed for time? Here’s the quick summary:

Yes, at-home LED masks can deliver real results. But outcomes depend heavily on the quality and power of your device — and your commitment to using it consistently. Just as importantly, proper use matters. Even though at-home devices are lower in strength than medical-grade treatments, incorrect use can still irritate or sensitise the skin.